Wednesday, December 24, 2008

Merry Christmas

Merry Christmas all. I am spending the holiday in Queenstown at a hostel. Several of the other people and I made a sort of potluck for dinner which was nice. Since leaving Te Anau with Shunit we traveled to Dunedin through the southern most route, through Invercargill and the Catlins. Shunit is the Israeli girl that I met on the Milford. We stayed at this hostel in Owaka that was an old hospital. While this was a little creepy it was really pretty cool, several of the beds were old hospital beds. After leaving Owaka we went to Dunedin where we stayed a few days. Dunedin is an interesting city. It was designed with a similar layout to Edinbourgh and has the worlds steepest street. Also visited the Speights Brewery and took the tour. It is one of the few gravity brewery's left in the world. All this means is that the ingredents start at the top of the building and the beer comes out at the bottom.
After leaving Dunedin we came to Queenstown for the night and left for the Rees-Dart track. This track is a 4-5day backpacking trip north of Queenstown sort of near the Routeburn. This track is also not a great walk which makes it a little less populated and more difficult. It was amazing. Hiking through bogs and wading rivers it was incredible. On the second day it was raining lightly and when crossing the Rees saddle it was snowing. It was so beautiful. Day three we did a side trip up to the Cascade Saddle. This day trip takes you by 2 hanging glaciers, by the Dart Glacier, and up to the saddle. Because of the recent snow we were postholing it through knee deep snow in some areas but just as you reach the crest you are rewarded with the most spectacular view. I think it is one of the most beautiful views I have ever seen and the Warden at the hut said it is probably one of the best alpine views you can get without crampons and special equipment.
I think what makes it so amazing is that the mountains are schist so you hike up the gradually sloping side and the saddle is at the area where the jagged edge forms cliffs. The world drops away into a lush glacial valley surrounded by snow capped peaks. There are waterfalls hundreds of feet below fed by the snow melt. It makes one glad to be alive to be standing on the edge of the cliff high above the floor breathing in the beauty.
In my enjoyment I forgot to reapply my sunscreen and wound up with a sunburn. I am still peeling.:)
After leaving the hut we walked 2 days out along the Dart river and returned to Queenstown. Went to dinner with Shunit and Johan (a Dutch guy we met on the trail) when we got back and then bar hopping. Was a great way to end a trek, fun people and to much to drink.
That brings me to where I am today. Tomorrow I am planning on doing a day hike just out side of town then on the 27th to Wanaka.

Friday, December 12, 2008

Leaving Te Anau

I have just finished the Milford Track. It was so amazing it is easy to see why it in such a famous walk. The region is so green and there is so much H2O. You walk through a wetland ecosystem to an alpine down through bush to the sound. Going over the McKinnin Pass you see how geography affects the plant diversity and environment. Also the geology was amazing hiking through various types of granites. On the first night the hut warrden gave a great nature walk talking about the various plants and some of the areas geology and at night showed us several glow worm colonies. Its pretty cool as they look like suspended pin pricks of blue light.

The only downside is the number of sand flies in the area. These little insects are just as irritating as mosquitoes but the bite actually hurts a little more. Was the first time I had to use bug repellent since I have been here. Everyone talks of the rain and how wet it is but we were blessed with 4 splendid days, 3.5 of sun and half of a light drizzle. Aparently last week people had to wade through meter deep water in some areas of the track, thankfully I barely got my boots muddy. The huts are very comfortable with gas cookers and bunk beds with matresses, so it really isnt roughing it.

There is also the option of doing the walk through a guided walk company which is quiet a bit more expensive but all you have to carry with you is a day pack and they provide everything for you.

It is also great how regulated it is so the trail isnt inundated by people and you get to know the group you are with pretty well. I was able to meet loads of people from OZ, Denmark, and other regions. Also became hiking buddies with a couple of women one of which is from Mexico and the other from Israel. Everyone was very friendly which made for a great experience.
Tomorrow I plan on heading to Duneden then working toward Stewart Island.

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Te Anau

After leaving Nelson I joined a girl from Germany and one from Scotland to walk the Abel Tasman track. We did the walk in 3 days and while the Tongararo northern circut was nice I enjoyued this walk a bit more, my bag was lighter, I had great company, and the weather was nicer. The water was amazing having hues of light blue and greens. We were very lucky as the weather cleared the day before leaving to go. Unfortunately some of the trail had been damaged by the storm but it was passable. After finishing the Track we returned to Nelson where I met up with my WWOOF hosts.
My hosts lived in Motueka and had 5 goats that I milked in the mornings, a dog and cat. Red is a blacksmith so I was able to learn about using a forge and make a few things. I was also able to make cheese with the goat milk with Sarah. In addition to these projects I helped with the gardening. Had a great time here but had to move on.
I am now in Te Anau where I will leave tomorrow for the Milford Track. It is raining here today but the weather is supposed to clear tomorrow.